We had a long but not at
all boring trip from Zagreb, up with the sparrows, tram number 6 (our
favourite because it seemed to go everywhere we wanted & passed by our
hotel) to the bus station. Strange thing here, you pay for your luggage separately
from the bus ticket, it cost us two euro each bag for the driver to put a label
on it then lift it into the baggage compartment....oh well guess it is his
pocket money!
Central Square in Belgrade |
Changing countries was no problem, the border control officer collected our passports, went back to his little compartment/office, checked that we were not on the most wanted list then returned them, that was the Croatian side. The same was repeated about 50 feet later at the Serbian Border, only this time they actually stamped them to say we had entered the country.
Park near the fortress with tables & chairs for playing chess etc |
Our hotelier, Ivan, had offered to pick us up at the bus station for a small fee which we accepted as we had been warned of 'very dodgy' taxi drivers here. Lovely little hotel, opened just a couple of months too, it has only three bedrooms with bathrooms & is owned by a delightful young couple, he is an ex-basketballer (so he makes Grant look like a midget) & she is a tiny but gorgeous blonde Macdonian with limited english skills although he speaks excellent english. He is a bit of a go-getter type, keen to make a success of his new business, he took us for a short 20 minute guided walk round the neighbourhood after we arrived pointing out ATMs, mini-marts that are open 24/7 & where to get 1) the best chinese, 2) the best pizza 3) the best sandwiches & bagettes 4) the best croissants 5) the best gyros & 6) the best choices of the local 'fire water' which makes vodka look tame.
Just a small section of the massive fortress overlooking the Danube & Sava Rivers |
On our first day, with the temperature expected to peak at a whopping 9 degrees, we went to a fruit & veg market, there were a few things on sale here that I have never seen before & don't know if I would eat. It actually maxed out at only 7 degrees but we pushed on courageously to the historic fortress. Now this was a massive site & we picked up a map to show us what was what. As with all of this type of structure the walls have been built & rebuilt after every battle but there was enough left in sections to get a feel for the different stages of development from Celtic times through the Romans, then the Turks & last but not least the Austro-Hungarians, most of the final construction was done in the 1700s.
A bit of the exterior wall & the view, gorgeous! |
On the way home for a rest we picked up a gyros (pork, salad, tzatziki, pita bread & a few chips on top) each, our timing was perfect because it started to rain just as we got to the front door. Nothing was so welcome as that hot coffee & absolutely delicious (best one we have ever had & we have eaten plenty let me tell you) gyros. Grant wanted another one for dinner!
The 'will I ever be finished' orthodox church |
Out for another walk in the afternoon this time to the large Orthodox Church which they have been building for 115 years, but still going. It is massive & fully lined in green marble, no wonder it is costing a fortune. It was getting dark by the time we started walking home but it was lovely to see the enormous government building & fountains all lit up & looking picture perfect. Unexpectedly Belgrade is a bustling city with large numbers of people out in the evenings, young people, families with children & prams, older people enjoying coffee, it has a really nice feel.
Next day we went for a drive/tour with the owner of the hostel. He took us to a couple of museums which are outside the city, an historic township & the 'beach'. The enormous 200 year old Plane tree outside the old royal family residence was amazing & the museum was full of fantastic uniforms & weapons. The beach was a man-made pebble area opposite what was a similar but smaller natural area on an island in the river. This is a very popular spot in the summer heat with the young 'party-people' in the new area & families & the older generation enjoying the more natural areas on the island.
Tito's statue |
The visit to Tito's memorial & museum was unexpectedly moving. Most people we have met think very highly of Tito & what he was able to achieve for the entire Balkans. His death in 1980 left a void that no-one was able to fill eventually resulting in the demise of Yugoslavia & the civil wars that followed. There were two main displays, the first was of the gifts Tito had received from visiting dignitaries. What a collection that was! Some amazing, valuable works of art created by craftsmen, carved gourds from Africa, metal gongs from SE Asia etc. The second museum contained traditional costumes, weapons & household items from across the entire Yugoslavia area. I thoroughly enjoyed this museum, the workmanship in the items was amazing, I have rarely seem embroidery skills like it, I could have stayed for hours, shame Grant wasn't as enthralled.
Just an example of the marvellous national dress on display |
One spot had to be put off until the next day hoping that the weather might improve, a trip to the Memorial to the Unknown Soldier & the Avala Telecommunications Tower. Fortunately the next day was a little better, there was some fog when we went to the Memorial, but after a cup of coffee it had improved enough to give the tower a try. Bit misty in the distance but the view from the top was wonderful, mind you I had to stay close to the wall as the height was a bit much for me however Grant took the photos for me. One side of the tower was cold but not windy but when you walked round to the other side it was freezing & blowing a gale. Well worth the effort though, it was a lovely view of the entire Belgrade area, with a population of 2 million it is quite large & spreads along the banks of the rivers Danube & Sava but there is plenty of farmland & forest areas close to the city making it quite attractive.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, massive as you can see, that is Grant standing up there! |
The Avala Tower, & yes I did go to the top! |
Memorial of three fists - man, woman & child. Scene of a mass execution during WW2 |
First stop was the central railway station to buy our tickets for the following day's trip to Sofia in Bulgaria then off to the Bubanj Memorial Site, three large concrete 'fists' mark the site of the execution of between 10 & 15 thousand people during the Nazi occupation of Yugoslavia. This was a very moving site, not fancy but a quiet parkland area on top of a hill.
We had quite a long walk to our next destination fortunately it was either downhill (as we had done the uphill part to get to Bubanj) or skirting round slopes as we worked our way through the backstreets to Cele Kula, The Skull Tower. This was built by the Turks who used the heads of Serbian soldiers after the Battle of Cegar in 1809. It originally held 952 human skulls but today only 58 remain. This was a bit morbid but I must say fascinating at the same time.
Just one of the skulls that still remain embedded in the tower |
A cup of coffee called us so we headed to the newest church in Nis & found ourselves a lovely little outdoor cafe overlooking the park & church. Boy did we need that sit down! While we sat we noticed a very busy corner across the road which turned out to be a market with fruit & veg round the outside & mostly clothing inside. Grant had been browsing for a zipfront hoodie so we were lucky enough to find exactly the type of thing he wanted for just 1200 Serbian Dinar (that is a whopping $A12) so we were happy with that. The rest of the walk was basically leading us back home via Tinker's Lane (a small craftsmen's area still in original condition), the city pedestrian mall, the Fortress gate to take the photo I had forgotten the day before, finally the green market then back to the hostel to collapse in a heap!! Phewwwww
Got to love this street food, & only about a dollar a slice |
A leisurely start to the day as our train didn't leave until 12.35pm or so we thought! Grant had tried to visit the Concentration Camp Site the afternoon before but had been too late so he decided to pop over there first thing (it was literally 100 metres from our hostel) to have a look round. It was interesting but none of the information boards had any english translations so it was really only a look as he was not able to gather any information about the place at all.
About 10.30 we headed off on the kilometre walk to the railway station, no rush, plenty of time. We enjoyed an iced coffee or as they call them here a Nes (short for Nescafe) then wandered to the platform in plenty of time for the train. Well, things in Serbia run on their own timetable & after a two hour wait we finally got on the non-smoking carriage of the train. It didn't take long before we realised that following the rules is not a Serbian thing & the carriage quickly filled with choking smoke as the other dozen people in the small carriage all chain smoked. After an hour of this Grant went to see if he could find us a spot out of the smoke, the first class carriage was our only option & I have never been so relieved as when I found I still had 20 Euro in the bottom of my bag to pay the extra on the train ticket, we had used up virtually all our Serbian Dinar. We then enjoyed the rest of our trip in relative comfort although the man did tell us it was OK to smoke if we wanted, despite the clear no smoking sign on the door, thank goodness we had the six seats in the little compartment to ourselves.
We finally arrived in Sofia, Bulgaria after lengthy stops at each of the stations & at the two border crossing, only three hours late, in the cold & the dark, in a city we have never been to before, where all the signs are in cyrillic......all was not lost, hope glimmered in the light of the Couch Surfing Hosts we were going to stay with......