Bellissimo - ITALY

ROMA

Great train trip, Nice to the Italian border town of Ventimiglia then on to Milan, change of trains, high speed train then to Rome, took most of the day but it was a lovely trip, very scenic. We arrived in Rome after dark so getting to our accommodation which was out of town required a metro trip & a bus. Bit of a hiccup there as it was a public holiday in Italy & the bus we had been told to catch doesn't run on Sundays & festival days so taxi was our only option.

Guess  That's right, the Colosseum

Day one, had to do the big items first of course, so a trip to the Colosseum was number one on the list. What an amazing structure, you can just imagine its original size & with canvas sails for shade it must have been awe-inspiring. Just a few steps away was the Roman Forum, massive columns towered over the area again giving you a feel for the original size of the structures. When you factor in that 90% of it is missing, WOW. We saw the actual Roman Forum too, mostly just some of the roof space left now but still that was huge.

Roman Forum, can you imagine it 2000 years ago?

On then down the Via del fori Imperial to the Piazza Venenzia & the inspiring pristine white Palazzo Venenzia & across the road is Trajan's Column which is 35 m high & has a spiral scene carved onto it, beautiful!

 

The Palace of Venice (Palazzo Venenzia)

From here we walked to the Trevi Fountain, possibly 50% of the tourists in Rome that day were also there at the time, boy it was crowded but we managed to find a seat to enjoy the vibe for a while. 

On then to the Pantheon with its massive marble columns out the front & almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest self-supporting concrete dome.



The rectangular front of the Pantheon, this used to have 15 steps at the front
to prevent flooding from the river that ran past. Road level raised over the
years & river now miles away.



The back section of the Pantheon is circular & has the most amazing 3D dome

Next it was Piazza Navona, there was a christmas market there at the time so it was full of people & activity but the reason we went there was to see the two famous fountains, particularly the Fountain of the Four Rivers & to see the surrounding buildings which were suppose to be some of the best examples of baroque architecture in Rome. 

They certainly knew how to do a nice fountain in the 1500s,
this is Neptune's Fountain

Getting tired by now but one more stop for the day & that was the Spanish Steps.  Well, the crowd from the Trevi Fountain had moved & multiplied tenfold....what a crush!  The steps are nothing special but the street of shops with Christmas lights & unaffordable clothes, shoes, jewellery etc leading to it was amazing.  Metro & bus home baby, couldn't get out of that crowd fast enough.

Couldn't see the steps for the people sitting on them! haha

Day two started at the Vatican City, the queues were unbelievable so a visit was really not viable but don't worry 'we will be back' one day.  The Basilica Di San Pietro & Piazza San Pietro were just lovely, a very beautiful open area designed for huge crowds, they were working on a restoration project so several sections were shrouded in cloth but there was still plenty to photograph & gawk at.  We sat here for an hour or so soaking in the atmosphere & eating our simple lunch of a baguette & fruit.

A view inside the famous columns
surrounding the Piazza San Pietro

The Basilica of St Peter, the Pope would have come out onto that central balcony,
 if he had realised we were there!

The next bit was definitely a challenge, we decided it was such a lovely afternoon that we would walk, as the route followed the Tiber River most of the way, to the Piazzo Del Popolo (People's Plaza) where until the mid-1800s public executions took place.



Nothing like a few magnificent statues to decorate a pedestrian bridge over
the Tiber River!

It's a really big & beautiful plaza with two wonderful fountains, one at each end, twin churches on one side with three main streets entering on that side & an ancient city gate opposite the churches.  Its other claim to fame is the magnificent Egytian obelisk brought to Rome in 10BC, which now stands in the centre of the piazza. This is a pedestrian plaza with a circular road round it. 

Twin Churches -  Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681)
& Santa Maria in Montesanto (1679)

Now the main reason we went there was actually to access the park & terrace above the piazza to enjoy the lights of the city as night-time fell, we did this after quite a climb up from the piazza, enjoying a hotdog as the lights slowly came on, what a sight.  The Vatican City & the Palazzo Venezia were clearly visible but I was a little disappointed that many of the large buildings & domes were unlit even by Christmas lights.



Rome skyline as we waited for sunset

Our last day in Rome was spent getting to know the area near our hotel, EUR, seems like a strange name for a suburb but it is initials for something I think.  Anyway we caught a bus to a shopping area near a lake, where Grant had found a fire station (great visit there with the guys) then we walked to Euroma 2 which is a really large shopping mall.  I needed a new pair of shoes, fancy wearing out a pair of Merrils, this time Grant convinced me to get joggers & I think they will help me walk further without the foot soreness I have had so far.

GENOVA

Up at 5am, out of our room 6am, with the intention of catching a bus then the metro into the Stazione Termini (Central Station) to get our 8am express train to Genoa. Our plans fell in a heap when there was a torrential thunderstorm & we were forced to call a taxi from the hotel. We finally got away at 6.30 only to be caught in terrible traffic jams because of the water on the road (stalled cars were the problem), it even hailed just a little on the way but we had allowed plenty of time as we always do & our taxi got us to the metro, a train was even waiting at the platform so we were fine. It took us until 1.30 pm to get to Genova, finding our hotel without any trouble, just 100 metres from the station.

How many Universities have entrance
halls like this one, not many I bet?

Off for a walk, map in hand & a few general ideas from the hotel staff & we were fine. I don't think I have the words to describe the wonderful Palazzo here, absolutely huge homes built around an internal courtyard, line the streets of the old city. The old city is actually bigger than Rome's old city, it is very nice with tiny winding streets, stairways to get you up the slopes & plenty of piazzas for a coffee & some people watching.



Just one of the multiple 'palaces' that are found in the old city

We had arranged a dinner date that night with a very dear friend of Toni's, the gorgeous Alice! She had left a lovely book at the hotel for us about Genoa as she regretted not being able to show us around more while we were here but we were able to get together for a delicious dinner of traditional local foods. Yummy! It was a pretty late night needless to say so we slept in a bit the next morning. I think I could count the number of times in my life that I have slept until 9am which just proves we are both a little over-tired at the moment.



Out for the evening with Alice

With only the one day in Genoa, we had plenty of walking & sightseeing to get under our belt in such a short time.  First thing we wanted to do was a quick trip up the hill in the Furnicular Railway, 1.50 Euro well spent to enjoy magnificent panoramas across the city from the viewing terraces at the top.  We walked down a couple of stations, but it was steps all the way & our knees soon started to feel their age!  We had return tickets anyway so we caught the next train that went passed.

Overlooking Genoa, we have been so lucky with the weather,
another beautiful winter's day

Once back in the old city we walked to the harbour to see the replica galleon it has been used in the making of a movie or two.  Then along the arcades of the harbourside buildings past all the fish shops & 'tabbachi' till we were able to turn into one of the main old city thoroughfares. 

Harbourside arcades, that used to literally
be on the harbour, but now there is at
least 100m to the water's edge, all reclaimed



The shopping here is really, really good, all the famous brands but at half the price of Rome.  We were heading towards a gallery built at the turn of the 19th century to provide arty-farty shops, cafes, bars etc to entertain the rich folk after they had been to the theatre/opera.

Gorgeous Galleria

Enroute we passed some stereotypical Italian images such as the rows & rows of parked scooters & mad drivers flying round the roundabouts.

Parking!

Some of the buildings/sights we covered during our walks around town included:
Palazzo Ducale built in 1339,
Palazzi dei Rolli all built in the late 16th century,
Piazza de Ferrari with its beautiful historic fountain but extra jets were added in 2004 the year Genoa was the Capital of Culture in Europe,

Piazza de Ferrari & its lovely fountain, that is a bank in the background

Duoma di San Lorenzo (the city's cathedral) built in 1098,

If you think this is decorative, you should go inside the Duoma.  A combination of
black & white stone is a classic style used in Genoa.

Chiesa dell SS Annunziata del Vastato (Church where Alice picked us up to go for gelati),

The little church at the bottom of our road,
Alice stopped out the front & we jumped into
her little grey car for a trip to the beach for
gelati...

Old city gates, strange but square on one side & round on the other,
Christopher Columbus' childhood home as he was born in Genoa, nice big statue too at the railway station,
Genoa Piazza Principe, the main city railway station.

This list could go on & on but you will have to wait for  the DVD to see all the great shots we took in Genoa.


CAMOGLI & THE ITALIAN RIVIERA

Our next stop was only a short train trip south of Genoa, about 45 minutes or so on a regional train costing a whopping 4.50 Euro each.  We stayed here, following Alice's suggestion for a couple of days near the seaside in this gorgeous unspoilt fishing village.  We lucked out here as they upgraded us to a room with an enclosed terrace facing, well virtually on, the sea. Other than the pedestrian promenade there is nothing but air between us & the sea, since we are on the second floor we cannot even see the promenade without leaning over the railing of our window.

Balcony view looking northward towards Genoa

After settling in we went for a wander round the township which is famous for its trompe l'oeil artwork on its buildings clings to the side of a steep hill, up & down stairs, along breakwalls, round the boat harbour, through tunnels & along a few proper streets too.  Nice mix of upmarket shops & artisan stores but fortunately only one or two souvenier shops.

It's hard to believe that this is a perfectly flat, concrete rendered wall,
don't the artworks trick the eye?  You would swear there were statues &
stonework but no!



Camogli fishing boat harbour, no multi-million dollar yachts here,
 just working vessels



Love this shot, the 'beach' at Camogli

Our next day had been set aside to visit the Cinque Terre, which is Italian for Five Lands as it refers to five villages that are linked by a walkway.  Unfortunately recent torrential storms have caused some damage to the track & towns but we managed. The weather stayed fine fortunately so we walked & visited township enjoying the wonderful views, using the train to negotiate past sections that were closed.  As Toni said 'Photos don't do this scenery justice!' & she is so right, you just cannot get the grandeur on film.

The first part of the 'Lover's Walk' from Riaggamoria to Managola.  Grant & I left
a token here (as everyone does) to celebrate, as it was our 38th Anniversary



Managolia as we walked out of town, leaving the best view behind



Looking back along the coast as we climbed the 365 steps to Corniglia township

Our final day in Camogli was spent with Grant out walking & me doing all the mundane jobs like washing, this blog, shopping for our next train trip tomorrow, you know all the things that just have to be done!

 

Looking back towards Camogli & in the distance Genoa from the top of the
hill where Grant walked, it was a tough trek too, thousands of steps but worth it

As it turned out it was a very wild & woolly sort of day with heavy seas that are the result of a strong low across Europe, not overly cold just windy & the surf is huge, crashing over the breakwalls & onto the promenade, the beach is all white foam.  So different from the calm blue waters that had greeted us on our arrival.

Just one shot of the waves crashing over the breakwall & onto the walls of the
building a few hours later most of the rocks from the beach
were gone & buildings were being undermined

A day on the train for most of tomorrow, getting us to Innsbruck for a couple of days in the Alps, maybe even some snow, wouldn't that be nice?